While India is believed to the native home to Basil. The ancient Greeks were the first to use basil both medicinally and for culinary purposes. Other cultures have used basil to ward off spirits, stimulate appetite, and to don pasta combined with olive oil and parmesan cheese.
Seeding
Basil can be direct seeded or transplanted into the garden.
Seed at a depth of ¼”. Seeds need a warm soil to germinate – 70+ degrees. Germination occurs in 7-14 days. Seed 6-8 weeks before the last frost and plant out after threat of frost has passed.
Direct seed outdoors ¼” deep after soil has warmed.
Spacing
10”
Cultivation
Basil prefers full sun and average water. Plants will “bolt”, or go to seed, as they mature and temperatures rise. Cut off all flowers to prevent the plant from sending its energy to the seeds and not the leaves. Once the plant reaches 18”, pinch off the top of the plant to encourage shoot growth.
Re-seed directly into the garden mid-summer to keep a fresh supply of basil going deep into summer and fall.
Pests
Fusarium wilt is a common disease. Plant multiple plants and multiple times to keep producing throughout the season.
Harvest
Harvest basil leaves as needed. Don’t remove too many leaves at a time to prevent stunting the plants.
Arugula has been grown throughout history. In India, the seeds were used to flavor their dishes and the ancient Romans used the leaves to add spice in their meals. In the US, it is a very popular salad green known for its peppery taste and tender leaves.
Seeding:
Direct seed arugula into your garden in mid September. Seed Arugula in rows that are 6” apart, with the seeds 1” apart. Plant seeds to .25” depth.
Spacing:
6” between rows; 1” between seeds
Cultivation:
After seeding your arugula, weed your rows regularly. Once established, a canopy will form and the Arugula will out-compete the majority of weeds. This will leave you with an easy to maintain patch of peppery salad greens. A light feeder, it doesn’t need much soil amending to produce a healthy crop. Arugula is very winter hardy and will grow throughout winter in zone 6 south.
Pests:
The flea beetle is an annoying pest of arugula. It will pierce holes in your leaves, making them not as attractive. However, the arugula will still be tasty and shouldn’t be avoided. Flea beetles are primarily a problem in the summer and during hot, drought conditions. Early spring and late fall plantings will likely avoid this annoying pest.
Harvest:
Harvest arugula anytime once true leaves appear. For multiple harvests, wait to harvest until the plants reach 5-6”. Grown in cool conditions, the leaves have a mild, but distinct peppery taste. Spring plantings tend to flower quickly. As are all brassicas, the flowers are edible and also tasty.
Simple and rich gardening support for people who want to keep a garden and live seasonally
It is important to know what USDA Hardiness Zone you live in and what your Spring/Fall Frost dates are. Understanding what zone you live in and when to expect frost will help you better understand when to plant your garden and when to be on guard to protect vulnerable plants.
Finding your Hardiness Zone
In order to find out what your Hardiness Zone is, visit this website: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/. Enter your zip code in the the upper-left hand side of the map to find your location and zone. Once you know your zone, You will be able to use that information to identify which plants are most likely to thrive in your area, better plan the planting of your spring and fall garden, and better understand your regional climate.
Finding your Frost Dates
Once you find out what Hardiness Zone you live in, you can use that information to help find your frost dates.
Below is a general guide to get started.
Zone 6
First Frost – October 1st
Last Frost – May 1st
Zone 7
First Frost – October 15th
Last Frost – April 15th
Zone 8
First Frost – November 1st
Last Frost – April 1st
The first frost date simply means that there is a greater than 10% chance a frost will occur on any given night in your area after that date. The last frost date means the chances of a frost on any given night are less than 10%. Within each region there are micro-regions that can cause these dates to vary widely. Note each season when your first frost appears and combine that information with the above to settle in on the most likely date for your area.
One of the oldest cultivated crops, Garlic was cultivated as far back as 5,000 years ago. Multiple ancient civilizations grew garlic including the Egyptians, Babylonians, Indian, and Chinese. Easy to grow, easy to store – this vegetable is a staple in the modern kitchen .
Seeding:
Plant your garlic in mid to late October. Break apart bulbs and plant individual cloves 6 inches apart. Plant the blunt end down, with the tips at soil level. Avoid planting garlic in an area where any plant from the cabbage family grew the season prior.
Spacing:
6”
Cultivation:
In late fall, use a light mulch (leaves or straw) to cover and protect the garlic during winter. Remove most of the mulch in early spring and keep the garlic bed well weeded.
Harvest:
Harvest your garlic after the bulbs are well formed and the necks have turned brown. Loosen the soil with a garden fork and pull the stalks straight up. Cure the bulbs in an area with good air circulation and out of direct sunlight. After a week or so you can store without their dry tops or braid the tops and hang for use throughout the year.
*Garlic Scapes are the green shoots that will arrive in spring before the bulbs are ready for harvest. They have a great flavor that is more mild than the cloves. Add the garlic scapes to vegetable stir fries, stews, sauces, or eaten raw for a quick burst of garlic flavor. Cut with a sharp knife before the scapes open up.
