Zea mays
History:
Corn sits atop, or at least very close to the top, of the world’s most important crops. It’s origins are in the Americas and has been growing there for millenia. There are newer hybrid varieties that are known for their sweetness and corn varieties that “pop” when heated. Today, corn is grown as a staple food crop all around the world.
Seeding:
Corn needs a warmer soil to germinate so wait until mid spring to plant. Once the threat of frost has passed, it should be safe. Seed 1”-2” deep and look for germination in 4-10 days. Due to its height, seed corn on the northern side of the garden to avoid shading out other crops.
For a continuous supply of sweet corn throughout the summer, make 2-3 successive plantings a couple weeks apart each.
Spacing:
8”-12” apart in rows 30” apart.
Cultivation:
Corn is a vigorous grower and noticeably thrives fertile soil. It will appreciate any additional compost you give it. Corn will also respond well to irrigation during dry spells. Mulch helps retain and regulate moisture.
Pests:
The corn earworm is a nuisance but can simply be removed upon shucking. Racoons love a stand of raw corn.. Electric netting works well to keep out racoons. There are various other pests, but overall, infestations are rare and are indicative of poor soil and weak crops. Rotation and fertile soil will help eliminate majority of problems.
Harvest:
An ear of corn is ready for harvest when its juices are milky. Puncture a kernel with your fingernail. If the juice that comes out is watery, its too early. If it’s a doughy consistency, its past due. Harvest when Husks are dark green, stalks are brown, and the ears are full. Eat raw in the garden or fresh from the kitchen. Sweet corn loses flavor after a few days so don’t wait long to enjoy.
Brassica oleracea
History:
Like Kale, Collard-like plants were referenced as early as the 9th century in Greek literature. Collards and Kale are possibly the first cultivated brassicas.
Seeding:
Seed indoors in late July or by early August. Seed ½ inch or so deep. Germination usually occurs in 5-10 days. Begin hardening off roughly 10-14 days before transplanting outside. Transplant outside in September once 2-4 true leaves have appeared.
Direct seeding outside is also recommended and can be done in March for a spring crop and mid to late August for a fall crop. Seed thinly and let the seedlings grow until the leaves are a good size for salad greens. At this point, thin to 10” – 12” apart.
Spacing:
10” – 12”
Cultivation:
Collards are light feeders, but do noticeably well in fertile, well drained soil. It is a resilient plant that can be harvested well into the winter. Able to withstand temperatures into the teens, Collards offer an excellent choice for a fall/winter garden. Collards thrive in summer heat making it one of the most versatile plants available to the home gardener. Leaf mulch is a great way to amend the soil both before planting and around the established plants, particularly for kale and other brassicas.
Pests:
The cabbage worm, which is the larva of the beautiful White Cabbage Butterfly, is a pest that you will sometimes find on Collards. Pick these worms off mechanically or you can use a bacterial pathogen, Bacillus thuringiensis. This is a control method that is safe and offers excellent control of the worm. It is sold under several brand names.
Harvest:
A single Collard plant will produce several harvests throughout the season. When harvesting, pick the leaves from the bottom and allow the newer leaves to continue to grow for the next harvest period. By picking regularly, you will ensure a longer cropping period and have plenty of tender, tasty leaves to eat on throughout the season. Collards, unlike Kale, thrive in the hot summers and can also be harvested throughout the winter.
Apium graveolens
History:
Wild celery can be found growing in marshy areas throughout Asia and from Sweden to north Africa. Originally used medicinally, it wasn’t until the 1500’s when celery was noted in literature as food. Now the vegetable is a popular addition to salads and soups.
Seeding:
Seed indoors 8-10 weeks before last frost. Lightly cover seeds. Seeds germinate in soil temps ranging from 55 – 75 degrees. Germination occurs in 10-20 days. Plant transplants once soil has warmed above 55 degrees or 2-4 weeks before last frost and make sure average temperature is above 50 degrees. Protect seedlings from late frosts and freezing weather.
Spacing:
10-12”
Cultivation:
Celery must be watered well. It prefers a constantly moist soil, but not drenched. It also prefers a well composted, fertile soil. When transplanting into the garden, make sure average temperatures are above 50 degrees. Cooler temperatures will cause the plants to go to seed.
Harvest:
Harvest celery by removing the outer stalks with a sharp knife or cutting the whole plant.
Brassica oleracea
History:
An oddly named and shaped vegetable, Kohlrabi is grown for its bulb like stem. Excellent taste and flavor, more and more gardeners are beginning to plant this crop in their fall/winter garden.
Seeding:
Direct seed into the garden in mid to late August. Plant .25” deep. Seeds should germinate in 5-10 days.
Spacing:
5” – 7”
Cultivation:
Kohlrabi is a fast growing, cool season vegetable. They are easy to grow and easy to weed. Kohlrabi is a light feeder but similar to other brassicas prefers a fertile soil that is high in organic matter and nitrogen. Kohlrabi will continue to grow well into the fall and winter until hard freezes begin.
Pests:
Like Most other brassicas, the cabbage worm, which is the larva of the beautiful White Cabbage Butterfly, is a pest that you will sometimes find on Kohlrabi. Pick these worms off mechanically or you can use a bacterial pathogen, Bacillus thuringiensis. This is a control method that is safe and offers excellent control of the worm. It is sold under several brand names.
Harvest:
Harvest Kohlrabi when the bulb is almost the size of a tennis ball – or between 2” – 3”. For storage, trim the leaves (which are edible) and any loose roots, and store in a cellar. Well grown plants can be stored for the whole winter.
Brassica oleracea
History:
Kale-like plants were referenced as early as the 9th century in Greek literature. Cato, in 210 B.C. referenced it directly. Kale is possibly the first cultivated brassica.
Seeding:
Seed indoors in mid January for an early spring transplant or late July or by early August for a fall garden. Seed ½ inch or so deep. Germination usually occurs in 5-10 days. Begin hardening off roughly 10-14 days before transplanting outside. Transplant outside in September once 2-4 true leaves have appeared.
You can also direct seed into your garden in mid March and Mid August.
Spacing:
10” – 12” for individual plants, where you will periodically harvest large leaves.
.5” – 1” for smaller, more succulent “salad green” leaves that are often only harvested once.
Cultivation:
Kale is a light feeder, but does do noticeably well in fertile, well drained soil. It is a resilient plant that can be harvested well into the winter. Able to withstand temperatures into the teens, Kale offers an excellent choice for a fall/winter garden. Leaf mulch is an excellent choice, particularly for kale and other brassicas.
Pests:
The cabbage worm, which is the larva of the beautiful White Cabbage Butterfly, is a pest that you will sometimes find on Kale. Pick these worms off mechanically or you can use a bacterial pathogen, Bacillus thuringiensis. This is a control method that is safe and offers excellent control of the worm. It is sold under several brand names. Another pest of Kale is the Flea Beetle. I have found that this pest is usually a problem during periods of high heat when the plants are stressed. Fall plantings are less likely to experience serious issues with flea beetles. Similarly, watch for Cabbage Aphids. These critters like plants that are stressed and weakened.
Harvest:
Kale is most tasty in the fall after a few light frosts. A single Kale plant will produce several harvests throughout the season. When harvesting, pick the leaves from the bottom and allow the newer leaves to continue to grow for the next harvest period. By picking regularly, you will ensure a longer cropping period and have plenty of tender, tasty leaves to eat on throughout the season. Kale is winter hardy and can be harvested even under a blanket of snow.
Daucus carota
History:
First used as medicine, carrots are found wild in almost all major continents. According to historical records, it was the 10th century when carrots began to be cultivated in Europe. It’s culinary importance grew and was among the first food crops brought the the Americas by European settlers and explorers. Carrots selected for flavor, grown in mineral rich soil and harvested at their peak in cold weather will produce a flavor unlike anything available at the grocery store.
Seeding:
Carrot seeds germinate between 50-75 degrees. Germination occurs in 6-21 days. Plants need full sun but in really hot climates partial shade is needed for best results.
Seed carrots in March for a spring harvest and August for a fall/winter harvest. Cover lightly and keep soil moist until germination. Some people recommend covering seed beds with burlap and keeping the burlap wet to help hold in moisture until germination.
Spacing:
2” in the rows and 4-6” between rows.
Cultivation:
Carrots like loose and soft soil. Before seeding, use a garden fork to aerate their bed and loosen any deep compaction. Keep carrots weed free. They grow slowly and need the protection a gardener provides. Once the seedlings are 2 inches, mulch with chopped leaves.
Harvest:
Carrots like cooler weather and their flavor reflects that. Harvesting before the summer heat sets in for spring plantings and in the middle of a cold winter will be rewarded by flavors only found in carrots raised in a home garden. Harvest fall planted carrots by late January or they will lose their quality and flavor. An abundance of flowers will be produced mid-spring from overwintered carrots.
Use a garden fork to loosen the soil around the carrots and gently pull carrot tops by hand. Cut tops within an inch of the crown and place in a storage container. Keep in a cellar environment and they will store for months in excellent condition.
Brassica oleracea
History:
The cabbage we plant today originated from a wild perennial that can still be found along the coasts of England today. Cato, a Roman citizen, described different kinds of cabbages and kales as early as 200 B.C. In addition, Chinese cabbages and mustards are found in literature and artwork that predates Christ by multiple centuries.
Seeding:
Seed indoors in mid January for a spring harvest and late July or by early August for a fall/winter harvest. Seed ½ inch or so deep. Germination usually occurs in 5-10 days. Begin hardening off roughly 10-14 days before transplanting outside. Transplant outside in September once 2-4 true leaves have appeared. In the spring, choose seedlings that are less developed to prevent bolting during the colder nights.
Spacing:
20” – 24”
Cultivation:
Cabbage likes full sun and also likes soil with sufficient nitrogen. Mulching with autumn leaves, planting a leguminous green manure the summer before, or fertilizing with alfalfa meal will help accomplish optimum nitrogen levels. It is frost tolerant but a heavy frost will burn the outer leaves. If temperatures go below freezing, care should be taken to cover the plants.
Pests:
The cabbage worm, which is the larva of the beautiful White Cabbage Butterfly, is a pest that is very common. I watch closely and mechanically control the pests by picking them off as I see them. One way you will notice their presence is by seeing the waste they leave behind. It is green and clumpy. That is a sure sign you have cabbage worms. Due to their color, they can be difficult to see. Look underneath leaves and along the stems. Another way to control these worms is using a bacterial pathogen, Bacillus thuringiensis. This is a control method that is safe and offers excellent control of the worm. It is sold under several brand names.
Harvest:
Cabbage is usually ready for harvest by early summer and late December. We often let ours stay in the ground throughout the winter and harvest as we are ready. Cool quickly after harvest.
Brassica oleracea
History:
This vegetable got its name in Italy where gardeners referred to the tender shoots produced by overwintered cabbages as Broccoli. Royal gardens were known to be filled with these highly regarded shoots and eventually broccoli no longer was known as a cabbage and began to be cultivated and selected for the shoots only.
Seeding:
Seed indoors in mid January for a summer harvest and late July or by early August for a fall/winter harvest. Seed ½ inch or so deep. Germination usually occurs in 5-10 days. Begin hardening off roughly 10-14 days before transplanting outside. Transplant outside in September once 2-4 true leaves have appeared.
Spacing:
10” – 12”
Cultivation:
Broccoli likes full sun and is a heavy feeder. Mulching with autumn leaves, planting a leguminous green manure the summer before, and supplementing with an organic fertilizer such as compost or vermicompost will help accomplish optimum nutrient levels. It is frost tolerant. If temperatures go below freezing, care should be taken to cover the plants. If given proper protection, broccoli plants will continue producing tender side shoot all the way up until a heavy freeze.
Pests:
The cabbage worm, which is the larva of the beautiful White Cabbage Butterfly, is a pest that is very common. I watch closely and mechanically control the pests by picking them off as I see them. One way you will notice their presence is by the waste they leave behind. It is green and clumpy. That is a sure sign you have cabbage worms. Due to their color, they can be difficult to see. Look underneath leaves and along the stems. Another way to control these worms is using a bacterial pathogen, Bacillus thuringiensis. This is a control method that is safe and offers excellent control of the worm. It is sold under several brand names.
Harvest:
After harvesting the main head, Tender side shoots will emerge that are a delicious treat. Harvest throughout winter. The Broccoli leaves are also edible and make excellent additions to salads. Cool quickly after harvest.
Beta vulgaris
History:
Swiss chard and beets are the same plant. The swiss chard selected for its leaves and beets for their bulb-like roots. These plants date back to ancient greek and roman civilizations where they were used as feed for both humans and animals. In the 1700’s there began a movement to produce sugar from beets for northern climates. Today, sugar beets are used to make up a large portion of the world’s sugar supply.
Seeding:
Beets can be direct seeded or transplanted. In warm climates, direct seed into the garden in March and mid August to early September for a fall/winter harvest. Seed .5” deep and look for germination in 5-15 days. Initially, thin seedlings to 2-3” apart. Use the baby greens in salads. As the plants grow, cut and harvest young plants for more tender greens, leaving behind plants spaced at 4-6” apart to grow on to maturity.
Spacing:
Space 2-3” thinning to 4-6”. Rows spaced apart 6”.
Cultivation:
Beets are light feeders and do not require much maintenance. A light addition of compost a month after planting makes a nice boost and will extend the harvest season but isn’t necessary. If your having trouble growing beets, check the pH of your soil. They prefer a more neutral soil.If you find your soil on the acidic side, add lime to raise the pH.
Harvest:
Harvest young tender beet greens for salads and larger greens for cooking. Once beets are thinned to 4-6” apart, let them mature until beets are about the size of a golf ball. Beets are good pickled, baked, or sliced raw and in salads.
Phaseolus vulgaris
History:
7,000+ years ago, in the Andes Mountains in Peru, Phaseolus Vulgaris, the common bean, began to be cultivated. Since then, it has established its place as one of the most important agricultural products in the history of humankind. The nutrition it provides and the ease of preserving its seed make it a popular choice for commodity farmers and home gardeners alike.
Seeding:
Direct seed beans 1” deep in the spring after the threat of frost has passed. Plant bean seeds with the “eyes” facing down. Beans prefer partial to full-sun. Shade during the late summer heat is appreciated and well tolerated. Beans will germinate in soil temps ranging from 60-85 degrees after 3-7 days.
Spacing:
Pole beans: 3-4” in rows spaced 1’ apart
Bush beans: 1’ in rows 2” apart
Cultivation:
“Bush” beans like support but don’t necessarily need a full trellis. “Pole” beans need full support and a structure to grow on. Provide proper support for the beans when you seed them. If you wait, it’s likely your window will pass. Beans like average water and aren’t heavy feeders but respond well to a rich soil.
Harvest:
Harvest beans every two to four days. This is critical because over ripe beans lose flavor and tenderness. Don’t wash your picked beans until you are ready to eat them. Store them in a sealed container in the refrigerator.
you can harvest beans in three different stages. Snap, Shell, and Dry. For snap beans, harvest before the beans begin to bulge in their pods. These beans are tender and do not require stringing. Shell beans, or “Shelly beans” as some call them are pods that have beans beginning to bulge. These pods are still green, can still be picked and eaten whole, but will likely need to be stringed. At this stage, it is also possible to shell the beans for tender, tasty beans. For dry beans, harvest when the pod has browned and the beans have completed their growth. The beans inside are brown, hard, and dry. These seeds are great for storing and often used in soups.